Photo by CRYSTALWEED cannabis on Unsplash

The 12-seater van dropped us off at the bottom of the staircase and the beefy resort sherpas lugged our suitcases up and into the room. They milled about long enough so I could remember to tip them, after which they scurried away to help the next guests. The room was clean, almost antiseptic with its stark white walls and white tile floors. No shelves, no artwork, and the burnt umber accent pillows were the only color in sight.

Stepping out onto the deck, we stood rigid, mouths agape in awe. In front of us was the entire stretch of Playa Palmar, the beach of Ixtapa Mexico. We saw people playing in the surf, walking in the sand, sunning, running, and laughing. There were yachts the size of buildings and hundreds of pelicans that darkened the sky. Brilliant yellow and red birds flitted about below us, snacking on juicy red berries fresh from the trees.

It was an all-inclusive resort, considered one of the finest on the beach, and we had a long week of pampering ahead of us. It was time to kick our relaxation into high gear.

Two towns

We used to travel a lot, back when it was less life-threatening. This trip was our first major excursion since the onset of the pandemic and it was a big one, three weeks of fun, sun, sand, and surf in one of the most popular tropical resort destinations in Mexico.

Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo are sister villages separated by three miles and a five-US-dollar cab ride. They both have beautiful beaches, delicious seafood restaurants, friendly folks, and weather so nice you’ll forget how to shovel snow.

But that’s where the similarities end.

Zihuatanejo is an old fishing village that’s managed to keep its roots intact for over a thousand years. The people, streets, and surroundings are gritty and authentic. You can fill your belly with a dinner of fish tacos and a pair of beers for six US dollars. The beaches are framed with a haphazard jumble of condominiums that look like they were built at a time when right-angles hadn’t yet been discovered. There are resorts, sure, but for the most part, they’re modest and affordable. People here call it “the real Mexico.”

In contrast, Ixtapa is a government-planned community designed to attract tourists and separate them from their wealth. Pristine beaches connect the perfect surf to the perfect suites in the shiny glass resorts. They sport spas and restaurants worthy of uptown Manhattan tastes, and the tourists gush about the experience — among the finest they’ve ever had.

These two cities constitute a perfect metaphor to compare differences between condo rentals and resort living.

Comparisons

Lodging costs

We started our vacation with ten days in an Airbnb in Zihuatanejo. It cost $130 US a night for a precarious perch atop a steep hill with a large patio overlooking the bay. It was a perfect location to watch the fishermen launch and return with boatsful of fish, the same ones we’d eat that night at dinner. It was a condo, with a shared pool and a property manager who would help us if needed. Otherwise, we were on our own to scout out the town, food, entertainment, and the like, all of which we would pay à la carte.

Our second destination was the Ixtapa resort. We did an exchange, so I don’t know the exact cost, but online prices start at $200 US dollars a night. In addition to that, we paid a mandatory $100 per person per day for all-inclusive food, drinks, and services. The cost per couple would be about $400 a day. For that princely fee, we got a private beach, our own palapa, free activities, gobs of delicious food and drink, pet crocodiles, and a gondola to whisk us up the hill to our room. Everything was paid for except a few specialties such as massages, lobster, and top-shelf liquor.

Our final days were spent back in Zihuatanejo in a VRBO very close to the beach. This one cost $150 US per night because of its proximity to downtown and the beach but was similar in quality to the first place.

I should note that there are plenty of places that cost more or less, we picked places that fit into our budget and preferred lifestyle.

Food and drink

It’s impossible to eat and drink the Mexican equivalent of $100 US dollars a day, but plenty of people lined up at the free resort trough to give it the old college try. I gave up after the first hangover and simply enjoyed modest dinners and wines at each of their restaurants thereafter. The safe and consistent foods in the buffets got old after a few days so we escaped captivity for a night and enjoyed a downtown meal. It was a nice break, but we felt guilty paying for outside food when it was free at the resort.

Hunting restaurants in the concrete jungle of Zihuatanejo on your own can be quite an adventure. Barkers line the streets urging you to try their restaurant over the others, and you never really know what to expect until after you’re served. Some are upstairs, some are down. Some are tiny hidden cafés with three tables and others are enormous rooms with TVs on every wall. Most are scattered up and down the sidewalks (outside for safety) and serve meals that are shockingly delicious. A nice quality dinner for two with drinks varied between $20 and $35 US dollars. The most expensive individual meal I saw was $30 — steak and lobster.

Bottom line: the variety of foods in downtown Zihuatanejo is extensive, rewarding, and affordable. It’s well worth the risk of an occasional hiccup to have such a wide range of culinary options.

Beaches

The shade of a palapa (a large palm umbrella) is priceless, and that underscores one of the greatest values of a resort.

In the middle of the day, the sun burns like a laser and can tan your hide into a leather handbag in a matter of minutes. Our resort assigned palapas to each family so we had a consistent place to rest in the shade and servers to bring us food and drinks. Not all resorts do this. Some require you to wake up early and race down to the beach like the start of Le Mans so you can reserve your place for the day. Check on this when choosing a resort, you’ll thank me (and sleep longer).

Beaches in Mexico are public, and many people bring their own umbrellas and chairs. A good Airbnb will have what you need, but if not you can buy them or just relax under the cover of a restaurant — you’ll find them all over the beaches. Beers cost about $1.50 US so there’s no need to worry about overspending in a beachfront bar.

Culture

You won’t find a lot of true Mexican culture in the resorts, which are designed on purpose to provide you with all the comforts of home. And that’s exactly what some people want.

However, if you have a notion to exercise your adventurous spirit, you’ll find neighboring towns that offer surfing, shopping, and sightseeing. If you look further, you can attend cooking classes, cycling tours, and hikes. There are pristine uncrowded beaches just a taxi ride away, and ancient ruins, museums, and local events with music, plays, dancing, and singing. It takes a little work to uncover these cultural gems, but a few conversations with locals and some online searching and you’ll be dancing La Bamba before you know it.

I think of resorts as spaceships, where everything you need for life is already inside. If you’re happy with a controlled environment then that’s for you, but if you prefer the adrenaline rush of a spacewalk then I’d point you to the less structured life in a condo by the beach.

Living expenses

In theory, the all-inclusive resort costs nothing more than what you paid upfront. Except for tips. And excursions. Food and drink upgrades, massages, clothing, shoes, taxis to escape for a night or two, and those Jetski and parasailing jaunts on the beach.

In your own condo you pay for everything but you pay local prices and you don’t have to take out a second mortgage on your house to get started. You control what you spend, where you eat, and in this country you can negotiate almost anything.

It’s a peculiar feeling reviewing the cost of vacationing in Mexico when I come from a country of wealth. A common entry-level wage in the USA is $15 an HOUR and the national minimum wage per DAY in Mexico is about $8.50 US. Everything here has to be inexpensive because people earn very little. Judging a vacation based on cost seems picayune.

But I will anyway: I lean towards the economics of a condo. Costs are lower and easier to manage.

Service & Facilities

Who needs daily linen service? Our resort changed linens and towels every single day, and they left origami towels folded in the shape of sea creatures on my bed. Cute for the kids I suppose, but pointless for the rest of us. Pampering is nice, but cotton sea creatures? I’m paying for that? I can also do my own dishes and keep the place clean for a few days. I’d rather not have strange people in my room picking up my underwear and rearranging my toiletries. Oh, and I have to tip them every day for a service I don’t want.

Miscellaneous

Condos have kitchens so you can buy food at the supermarket (another adventure) and make your own meals if you like. Beer may be free at the resort but in the grocery store they’re about $.75 US each, so practically free anyway.

Every place has a TV but I never turned one on.

Mattresses were equally comfortable.

Language differences are easier to manage at the resort, but a little effort to try some words goes a long way to make friends and influence people. I think they respect you more when you try.

Sand is everywhere so get used to it. Someone told me “sand is the herpes of vacations.”

Resorts feel safer, just like it’s safer to remain inside the spaceship. With that said, I’ve seen enough police officers with AK-47s patrolling the streets to feel like everywhere here is somewhere I’d feel comfortable being.

Noise is like sand, it’s everywhere. I thought resorts would have the edge on condos, but windows and decks are open to the world and some people are just oblivious. I’ve had noise issues on most of my Mexican vacations so I just go with the flow now (and bring earplugs).

Cats and dogs run wild in the towns, rarely spayed or neutered, and you’ll find a few strays even in the resorts. They’re friendly and seem to get enough food, so I don’t worry too much. I’ve never seen an animal misbehave.

My final thought bubble

From the analysis above, I’ve come to the conclusion that I’m more of an Airbnb condo guy. I especially like new adventures, skewering the language, and experiences that might once in a while spin out of control.

But I’m certainly not representative of all travelers. Mexico is a third-world country with different customs, language, and expectations. For those without a certain degree of tolerance and flexibility, the differences can be confounding and frustrating. Those are the travelers who may be best suited in a resort.

What about you? Condo or Resort?